If you wanted a torque wrench, I'd just get a 1/2" drive and then use a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer to adapt to your existing sockets. If you wanted better accuracy, then perhaps a 3/8" torque wrench which can be more finely tuned, but might not be necessary for what you're doing.
Beam style torque wrenches never lose their accuracy and are much more durable than click-it ratcheting styles, but the graduations aren't as fine and you'll need to see the dial as you're using it. Just an FYI, as you look around for what to buy. I'd purchase a beam style second hand, but not a ratcheting one. If you get a ratcheting one (new), make sure to dial it back to its lowest setting before storing it away.
If it's just the lug nuts driving this decision, I wouldn't bother at all. Did vehicles recently become more fragile? I've never heard of people using a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts until this thread, with the exception of torque limiting extensions for impact wrenches. Just tighten as much as you can by hand with the lug nut wrench. If you're on the road and have to change the tire, you'll need to get it off by hand, so you don't want it tighter than you're physically capable of. Mechanic shops are notorious for over torquing, so I don't think you have to worry about going too hard by hand.
Is there reason for this?
Yes, physics is the reason...
And the problem is even worse on the driver end
a 1/2 inch drive provides >30% more bearing area between the driver and the socket and >75% more area within the driver to react the internal shear stresses in the driver.
Yes. You risk breaking your wrench trying to put that much torque on a little nub of metal.